
Chick Care 101: From Pickup Day to Moving Out of the Brooder
7 min reading time

7 min reading time
Bringing home baby chicks is exciting, but proper care during the first few weeks is critical to their long-term health and success. This guide walks you through what to expect from pickup day through brooder life and beyond, based on what works for us through years of hands-on poultry raising.
This guide is intended for educational purposes only and reflects our personal experience raising poultry.
Most of the time, we provide boxes for day-old chicks to ensure safe transport. For chicks older than about one week, you may need to bring your own carrier. If you’re unsure, check with us when scheduling your pickup appointment.
Once you pick up your chicks:
If we provide transport boxes, they usually include a thin layer of large flake pine shavings for comfort and insulation.
Chicks can tolerate short periods without a heat source during transport, but minimizing travel time is always best.
Your brooder should be fully set up before you bring chicks home.
Your setup may differ — and that’s okay. The key is temperature control, cleanliness, and space.
We personally do not use heater plates. In our experience, they don’t always provide enough radiant heat and can be tricky to adjust correctly without experience.
We prefer heat lamps, ensuring:
You can use a thermometer inside the brooder, but it’s not required if you observe chick behavior:
Reduce brooder temperature by about 5°F each week:
We’ve found large flake pine shavings to work best.
Fine shavings tend to scatter easily and end up in feeders and waterers, making cleanup harder.
Use poultry-specific waterers sized appropriately for chicks. Open water containers increase the risk of:
If your waterer base feels too deep, placing marbles inside can help prevent chicks from falling in.
Place feeders and waterers about ¾ of the way away from the heat source. This creates:
We give all new hatchlings Grow Gel Plus for the first 12 hours after hatch to help establish gut health with prebiotics and probiotics.
After that, we transition them to WEST CHICK STARTER.
We recommend purchasing a 50 lb bag of chick starter and feeding it through before transitioning to layer or grower feed. Unless you’re raising a large number of chicks, a 50 lb bag often lasts several weeks.
Around 8–12 weeks old, depending on breed and development
Free-choice chick grit should always be available to help chicks digest their feed properly.
Even with excellent care, issues can happen. Always seek professional help for serious concerns. While we cannot provide veterinary treatment advice, we can share what we do when issues arise.
This often happens when:
We never mix chicks with large size differences. If trampling occurs:
If pecking starts due to visible injury, remove the injured chick until fully healed. Color changes or exposed skin can attract pecking behavior.
If a chick gets wet:
Pasty butt is common in chicks and can be caused by:
Check chick vents regularly. If buildup is present:
Failure to address pasty butt can be fatal. Some cases resolve quickly, while others take daily care for up to a week.
Additional probiotics may help, but often consistency and monitoring are enough.
⚠️ Do NOT bathe chicks.
Between 4–6 weeks of age, chicks can begin transitioning out of their initial brooder.
We often move them into a large wire dog kennel, provided they’re not small enough to slip through the bars. Heat is still provided — just at a greater distance.
On warm, calm days:
If chicks huddle together, it’s still too cold.
Chicks must be fully feathered (no baby down remaining) before living outside full time.
Even then:
By 12 weeks of age, most chicks can live outside full-time (excluding winter conditions).
Raising chicks is rewarding, but preparation and observation are key. Set up your brooder ahead of time, watch chick behavior closely, and make gradual changes when needed.
Healthy starts lead to strong, productive adult birds.